Walking through the streets of York, England, feels a bit like traveling back in time. In one afternoon, you can walk among Roman ruins, check out the relics of Viking settlements, and stroll cobbled lanes with crooked medieval buildings. History comes alive in its Gothic cathedrals, Norman castle ruins, and cozy medieval pubs still serving up lagers and whiskeys today.
But what brings much of the visitors to York—particularly in the fall—is its large number of ghost sightings, giving it the reputation as the most haunted city in Europe.
York’s haunted history
Some say York—located halfway between London and Edinburgh in North Yorkshire—is haunted because of its long history of plague, criminals, and violence. According to Alicia Stabler, who runs The Bloody Tour of York, York had more gallows at one time than any other city in England. Stabler leads visitors through the streets of the city center, teaching them about its gruesome and macabre past, dressed as one of its most notorious ghosts, Mad Alice.
Stabler says that archaeologists estimate the city has about 600,000 people buried in church graveyards and other sites under its streets, including a Roman burial site found when excavating the basement pool built into the four-star Victorian-era Milner York.
Visit Clifford’s Tower, one of the last standing sections of York Castle, for one of the best views of the city. Christopher Thomond, Guardian, Eyevine/Redux
Some properties have a whole host of uninvited guests. No less than 15 specters are said to haunt the Golden Fleece, a medieval pub overlooking the famous row of crooked shops called the Shambles (said to have inspired J.K. Rowling’s Diagon Alley). Its most famous ghost, Lady Alice Peckett, who was the lord mayor’s wife, reportedly moves furniture and walks down the stairs near its four bedrooms in the middle of the night. Its ghost-filled history is why it’s booked for years to come on Halloween.
Likewise, several guests have spotted a regiment of bronze helmeted Roman solders trudging through the walls in the basement cafe of the Treasurer’s House mansion since the 1950s after the base of a Roman column was uncovered. Years later, while excavating the foundations of York Minster cathedral across from the house, the remains of a Roman military headquarters were found.
With stories like these around every corner, and watering holes with names like the House of Trembling Madness, it’s no wonder York is often called “the city of a thousand ghosts.”
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Ghost tours
Thankfully, York’s haunted streets (called gates) are easy to navigate due to the city center’s manageable size and large number of narrow pedestrian passageways, referred to as snickelways. The 2.1-mile medieval stone wall that runs around downtown makes it easy to crisscross the city without a car.
Ghost tour operators are plentiful, such as the Spookologists Guide to Haunted York, the Witches Walking Tour, and Stabler’s award-winning Bloody Tour of York.
Past and present television shows portray actors stepping into the roles of York’s most famous ghosts and villains such as Guy Fawkes, who was caught trying to blow up Parliament in 1605, and Dick Turpin, the highwayman and murderer, who was finally caught and hung from the gallows in York in 1739.
A nighttime tour of Shambles street. Tour guides dress up as famous ghosts for some of the ghost tours. Nick Beer, Shutterstock
Beyond the spookiness
Of course, there’s plenty to do in York besides looking for ghosts. Architecture enthusiasts flock to York Minster, one of the best-preserved working Gothic cathedrals in Europe with a huge expanse of medieval stained glass and the “Doomstone,” a famous stone carving of the gates of hell, near the tomb of Saint William, the patron saint of York.
For one of the best views of the city, don’t forget to climb the cathedral’s tower, or visit Clifford’s Tower, one of the last standing sections of York Castle, with a rooftop viewing deck.
If you need to rest your feet after walking all day, I’d recommend the Jorvik Viking Centre, a museum with a short animatronic ride that takes you through a recreation of a 10th century Viking village in York—complete with piped in smells of the city— as well as a collection of relics uncovered in the 1970s during the village’s archaeological excavation.
For something completely different, take a chocolate history tour, visit the National Railway Museum, or get your scone fix with high tea at Betty’s Cafe Tea Room.
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Free two-hour tours of the city’s landmarks and history are also available twice daily, but advance booking is recommended. Another great option is hopping on a City Experiences boat tour on the banks of the River Ouse so you can learn about history while cruising and sipping mulled wine or hot tea.
If you plan on staying two or three days to take in all of the sights, it’s worth buying a Visit York pass, which offers free admission to 35 of the city’s top attractions as well as dining discounts.
York Minster cathedral’s crypt includes the famous “Doomstone.” Betofoto, Shutterstock
Where to stay in York
Guests looking for the opportunity to encounter one of York’s famous ghosts looming over their bed can book individual rooms at haunted pubs and apartments throughout the city.
The Grand is a stately hotel with a cookery school and spa located just over the bridge from York Minster. The Middletons Hotel, located inside the city walls, plays host to the award-winning York Gin Distillery, which provides tastings and gin-making lessons.