Ranikhet is a hill town in Uttarakhand that balances colonial charm with unspoilt Himalayan beauty. Here, wide avenues shaded by pine and oak trees lead to heritage bungalows, old churches, and open meadows roll into breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks. Translated to “Queen’s Meadow”, it’s a place where history lingers in its architecture, and the air feels lighter, both in altitude and spirit.
I had always wanted to visit this quaint hill station in Uttarakhand, drawn by its reputation for quiet charm and sweeping Himalayan views. So, when I finally set out, the eight-hour drive from Delhi felt like a journey I’d been waiting to take for years. Leaving behind Delhi’s glass towers and snarled traffic, I drove into the cool embrace of Kumaon, where the air grew crisper and the roads began to wind through pine and oak forests. The closer I got, the more the pace of life seemed to slow, preparing me for the calm that awaited.
The first thing that struck me on arrival was the quiet, with just the sound of wind in the trees and the occasional chatter of locals in the market. Over the next few days, I wandered through fruit-laden orchards, stopped by at shrines draped in bells, and lingered at viewpoints until the light changed. Let me take you through Ranikhet, a small military town perched at 1,869 metres, where breathtaking scenery, rich heritage, and everyday Kumaoni charm blend seamlessly.
Ranikhet: History & cultural significance
Legend has it that Queen Padmini of Kumaon was so captivated by the beauty of Ranikhet that King Sudhardev built a palace for her here. Later, during the British Raj, Ranikhet became a summer retreat for officers escaping the heat of the plains. Its pleasant climate and panoramic Himalayan views led to its establishment as a cantonment in 1869.
Today, Ranikhet retains much of its colonial-era charm. Its wide, tree-lined roads, heritage bungalows with sloping roofs, and the Gothic-style St Bridget’s Church are reminders of its colonial past. The Kumaon Regimental Centre, headquartered here, adds to the town’s military significance.
Culturally, Ranikhet is a confluence of Kumaoni traditions. Local festivals such as Nanda Devi Mela celebrate the region’s deep-rooted devotion to Goddess Nanda Devi, while the food keeps alive centuries-old culinary practices. The surrounding villages also offer a window into rural Kumaoni life, with traditional slate-roof houses, intricately carved wooden doorways, and age-old farming methods.
Best time to visit Ranikhet
The ideal time to visit Ranikhet is March to June (15°C and 25°C) and October to November (10°C and 20°C, dropping to around 5°C at night) when the weather is pleasant and the Himalayan views are at their clearest. Summers are cool and perfect for outdoor activities, while autumn offers spectacular mountain vistas. Visit during winters to enjoy snowfall and views of snow-covered peaks.
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How to reach Ranikhet
By air: Pantnagar Airport is approximately 110 km from Ranikhet.
By train: Kathgodam Railway Station is approximately 75 km away, with trains from major cities.
By road: Ranikhet is well-connected by road from Delhi (approximately 8-9 hours) and major Uttarakhand towns like Kathgodam and Almora.
Don’t miss our picture story on places to visit around Kasar Devi in Almora.
Things to do in Ranikhet
Stroll through Chaubatia Garden
Chaubatia Garden is a sprawling fruit orchard and research centre nestled amidst Ranikhet. “Chaubatia” literally translates to “four roads”, as it’s situated at the junction of four paths, offering a unique vantage point of the surrounding Himalayan peaks. Spanning over 600 acres, it is a botanical paradise, home to over 200 varieties of apples, plums, peaches, and apricots.
You can take a stroll through the terraced orchards, breathing in the fresh mountain air and the sweet scent of fruit blossoms. The garden also houses a small but well-maintained government Fruit Research Centre. From the highest point of the garden, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Nanda Devi, Trishul, Nanda Ghunti, and Neelkanth peaks. It’s a perfect spot for nature lovers, photographers, and anyone seeking a tranquil escape from the hustle and bustle of city life.
- Timing: 7 am to 7 pm
- Entry: Free
Step back in time at Jhula Devi Temple
The Jhula Devi Temple is a sacred shrine dedicated to Goddess Durga, located about 7 km from the main town of Ranikhet. The name “Jhula Devi” (Goddess of the Swing) comes from the central idol of the goddess, which is seated on a cradle-like swing.
The temple dates back centuries, to a time when the surrounding dense forests were a threat to local villagers. They prayed to the goddess for protection from wild animals, and when their prayers were answered, they built this temple in her honour. What truly makes this temple a unique experience is the thousands of bells that hang from its walls and ceilings. Devotees come to the temple to tie a bell, either to make a wish or as a token of gratitude after a wish has been fulfilled.
- Timing: 6 am to 7 pm
- Entry: Free
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Walk through history at the Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum
The Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum, located within the military cantonment of Ranikhet, is a tribute to the valour and history of the Indian Army’s Kumaon and Naga Regiments. Established in the 1970s, the museum meticulously preserves the glorious legacy of these decorated regiments, which have played a crucial role in defending the nation.
As you walk through its halls, you’ll embark on a historical journey through various conflicts, from the World Wars to the Kargil War. The exhibits are a treasure trove of artefacts, including captured Chinese rifles from the 1962 War, war trophies, old uniforms, gallantry medals, and personal belongings of distinguished soldiers. The museum also houses a poignant war memorial and a hall dedicated to the Param Vir Chakra recipients and the heroes of the 1962 War and the Kargil War.
- Timing: 9 am to 5 pm
- Entry: Rs 75
Book your stay at Amã Stays & Trails Serendipity, Ranikhet via MakeMyTrip
Book your stay at Amã Stays & Trails Serendipity, Ranikhet via Klook
Enjoy panoramic views from Majkhali
Majhkhali is a picturesque hamlet located about 12 kilometres from Ranikhet on the road to Almora, renowned for its breathtaking panoramic views of the mighty Himalayas. It offers a perfect, unhindered vantage point to witness the grandeur of the Nanda Devi, Trishul, and Nanda Ghunti peaks.
This peaceful hamlet is perfect for picnics, photography, or a leisurely break during a drive. The open meadows and clear skies make it an ideal escape from Ranikhet’s busier spots. You’ll also find a small Kali temple here that locals often visit.
Don’t miss our story on Majkhali, the serene neighbour of Ranikhet.
Tee off at Upat Golf Course
Maintained by the Indian Army, the Upat Golf Course is one of the highest in Asia, sitting at an altitude of over 6,000 feet. The lush green fairways of this 9-hole golf course, meticulously manicured and set against the backdrop of the Himalayan peaks, make for a truly majestic setting.
The course is open to the public for a nominal fee (Rs 150 for a round of golf), and you can rent golf clubs and balls if you wish to try your hand at the sport. The fresh air and stunning scenery make it a perfect spot to relax and take in the tranquillity of Ranikhet.
- Timing: 11 am to 2 pm
- Entry: Free
Trek to Bhalu Dam
Bhalu Dam, a small man-made lake built by the British in 1903 to provide water to the cantonment, is a peaceful, scenic spot. It’s not the dam itself that’s the main attraction, but rather the journey to get there. Located about 3 km from Chaubatia Orchards, you can reach the dam through a forest trek with dense pine and oak trees enveloping the area. The path is a delight for nature lovers, offering opportunities for bird watching and picnics.
- Timing: 9:30 am to 5:30 pm
- Entry: Free
Book your stay at Seed at Queens Meadows via Trip.com
Book your stay at Seed at Queens Meadows via MakeMyTrip
Pay homage at Haidakhan Babaji Temple
Perched on a hilltop about 4 km from Ranikhet, this temple is dedicated to Haidakhan Babaji, a spiritual leader revered for his teachings on truth, simplicity, and love. He is believed to be an incarnation of Lord Shiva. What makes this temple special is its stunning location. It provides a majestic, unhindered view of the snow-capped Himalayan peaks. The main temple is simple yet elegant, and the complex also features a large, striking statue of Lord Shiva. It’s a place where you can feel a deep sense of peace and connect with nature and your inner self.
- Timing: 6:30 to 11 am; 12 to 8 pm
- Entry: Free
Also, explore our picture story on Dev Bhoomi Uttarakhand, where divinity dwells in the Himalayas.
Must-try local foods & restaurants in Ranikhet
Ranikhet’s food scene is a heartwarming blend of rustic Kumaoni flavours, hearty North Indian food, and quick bites at charming cafés. For a taste of true Kumaoni cuisine, try traditional dishes like kaafuli (a thick spinach and fenugreek gravy), aloo ke gutke (spiced and fried potatoes), the tangy bhaang ki chutney (made from roasted hemp seeds), and baal mithai (a unique fudge made out of evaporated milk or khoya).
Pahadi food stalls near the market are your best bet for these authentic flavours. For a full-fledged Kumaoni thali, Mayur Restaurant is a long-standing favourite, serving a home-style meal that often includes mandua roti (millet bread) and other seasonal vegetables. Mutton chops at Prem Restaurant are a delight.
Also read | Bring The Mountains To Your Plate With These 10 Easy Kumaoni Recipes
On a chilly day, nothing beats a steaming bowl of thukpa or a plate of hot momo at Dolma Restaurant, a cosy spot known for its excellent Tibetan fare. Also, try singori, a unique sweet made from khoya and wrapped in a local leaf. You can find this delicacy at Kumaon Sweets. For a hot cup of masala chai and a plate of crispy pakoras, look for small tea stalls near the Golf Course or on the road to Majhkhali.
For a fine dining experience with spectacular views, head to Chevron Rosemount or West View Hotel. They offer a mix of Indian and continental cuisine in a colonial-era setting. If you’re looking for a quick bite and a good cup of coffee, The Cafe is the place to be. Do try their fresh bakes and delicious shakes.
Book your stay at Chevron Rosemount via Agoda
Book your stay at Chevron Rosemount via MakeMyTrip
Shopping in Ranikhet
While Ranikhet may not be a shopaholic’s paradise, it offers a range of local products and souvenirs that make for perfect keepsakes. For authentic woollens and tweed, a visit to the Kumaon Regimental Centre (KRC) Shawl and Tweed Factory Outlet is a must. This community centre, run by a welfare organisation for army widows, is both a workshop and a shop.
The main shopping hub is Sadar Bazaar, a bustling market where you can find everything from everyday items to unique local treasures. Look for shops selling intricate Kumaoni jewellery and handcrafted items, including a variety of wooden goods. This is also the best place to find Ranikhet’s most famous sweets, baal Mithai and singori, to take back home.
For local farm-fresh products, head to the Chaubatia Cooperative. Here, you can buy jams, fresh juices, and squashes made from the fruits of the famous Chaubatia Orchards. The market is also a great place to find local spices, herbs, and organic honey. Souvenir Hut near Chaubatia has quirky hand-painted fridge magnets.
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Best hotels & resorts in Ranikhet
Ranikhet offers a wide range of beautiful stays, from historic heritage properties to modern resorts and intimate homestays. For an immersive, colonial-era experience, book a stay at WelcomHeritage Windsor Lodge, a hunting lodge built in 1909 that has been meticulously preserved. Chevron Rosemount is another heritage property offering a mix of classic elegance and modern comforts.
For a luxury stay with a touch of wilderness, Seed at Queens Meadows offers elegant, eco-conscious villas and luxury tents with panoramic views of the Himalayas. For a boutique homestay experience, Amã Stays & Trails Serendipity, Ranikhet, provides an understated ambience perfect for reconnecting with nature.
Book your stay at WelcomHeritage Windsor Lodge via Agoda
Book your stay at WelcomHeritage Windsor Lodge via Expedia
Insider tips for visiting Ranikhet
- Pack a light jacket, as evenings and early mornings can get surprisingly cool.
- Choose sturdy walking shoes for exploring attractions like Chaubatia Gardens or the forest trails near Bhalu Dam.
- Visit the Upat Golf Course early in the day for the best Himalayan views.
- Keep small change and cash for local markets like Sadar Bazaar, where many vendors may not accept cards or digital payments.
- If you’re visiting Jhula Devi Temple, consider carrying a small bell as an offering, as it’s a local tradition.
- Extend your itinerary to include nearby hill towns such as Kasar Devi and Binsar for wildlife, nature trails, and mountain vistas. They are about 3 hours from Ranikhet.
- Download offline maps before travelling, as mobile network coverage can be patchy in higher altitudes.
- If arriving by train at Kathgodam, consider hiring a taxi for the entire trip. It’s often more cost-effective and lets you explore nearby sights without transport hassles.
(Feature image credit: Sanjay Koranga/Unsplash)
Related | Exploring The Beauty Of Kausani, The Switzerland Of India In Uttarakhand
Note:
The information in this article is accurate as of the date of publication.
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FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)
The best time to visit Ranikhet is March to June and October to November, when the temperatures are ideal for outdoor activities and enjoying uninterrupted Himalayan views.
From Delhi, it’s a drive of about 8–9 hours, or you can take a train to Kathgodam (KATHGODAM SHTBDI (12040) is the most convenient option, starting early morning at 06:20 am), followed by a 3-hour taxi ride. From Nainital, it’s a scenic 2-hour drive through winding hill roads.
Most main roads remain accessible, but landslides can occur during heavy rainfall. It’s advisable to check weather updates and start your journey early in the day.
Yes, public transport is available. State-run buses and private taxis connect Ranikhet to major nearby towns. Within Ranikhet, local taxis are available for sightseeing, but many of the main attractions are best explored on foot.
Yes, most hotels, resorts, and homestays remain open and are well-equipped to handle the monsoon. In fact, many offer special discounts and packages during this off-peak season, making it an affordable time to visit.
Ranikhet has several beautiful heritage properties like WelcomHeritage Windsor Lodge and Chevron Rosemount that offer a glimpse into the colonial past. Additionally, a growing number of intimate and welcoming homestays provide a more personal and local experience.
The top attractions include Chaubatia Gardens, Jhula Devi Temple, Upat Golf Course, and the Kumaon Regimental Centre Museum. The scenic hamlet of Majhkhali and the Haidakhan Babaji Temple are also popular spots that offer magnificent views and a quiet setting.
Yes, it is generally safe, but it’s important to be cautious. The forest trails around Bhalu Dam and Chaubatia Gardens become even more beautiful with the rain, but they can be slippery. Wear appropriate footwear and consider hiring a local guide if you plan on venturing into less-travelled paths.
While clouds and mist may obstruct continuous views, the monsoon offers a unique, dramatic experience with fleeting glimpses of the snow-capped peaks, making the views even more rewarding and memorable.
Yes, you may experience small temple fairs and local harvest-related festivities, offering a glimpse into Kumaoni culture.
Written By
Shweta Dravid
Growing up as an army kid, new cities, new schools, and new beginnings were a constant for Shweta. What ..Read More